Saturday, May 3, 2014

The first shall be last...


A couple of Mondays ago, in a rare turn of events, I found myself the first person to paddle out at my local break just after the sun came up, and the last to come in as it went down.* As a mother of two kids under three, even being able to go for one surf in a day demonstrates good fortune. But thanks to the glorious school holidays (and a teacher for a husband), on this day I indulged in not one but two sessions—top-and-tailing the day in the best way possible. How could anyone hate Mondays when they pan out like this?

*It is of course a possibility that someone else decided to have a super-quick session in the dark after I'd gone, but for the purposes of this story let's assume that didn't happen. Oh, and to clarify—my surf-filled day comprised two separate sessions, not one all-day marathon (although that would have been nice).