A couple of Mondays ago, in a rare turn of events, I found myself the first person to paddle out at my local break just after the sun came up, and the last to come in as it went down.* As a mother of two kids under three, even being able to go for one surf in a day demonstrates good fortune. But thanks to the glorious school holidays (and a teacher for a husband), on this day I indulged in not one but two sessions—top-and-tailing the day in the best way possible. How could anyone hate Mondays when they pan out like this?
*It is of course a possibility that someone else decided to have a super-quick session in the dark after I'd gone, but for the purposes of this story let's assume that didn't happen. Oh, and to clarify—my surf-filled day comprised two separate sessions, not one all-day marathon (although that would have been nice).
Sounds like a magical Monday indeed :) Glad you got to enjoy some time in the surf, even though I can't conceive of getting in the ocean from the freezing vantage point that is Goulburn this weekend!
ReplyDeleteI just realised we should have tried harder to fit in a swim while you were here! The water is still nice and warm. Maybe next time. Hope Goulbs isn't too freezing this week... see you soon! x
DeleteLove your drawings and design. They have great free-flowing, down to earth feel to them. Although I don't surf myself, the prospect of paddling out into the waves as the sun rises or sets is a very appealing idea. However, in all honesty, I could never see myself heading out into the surf! It will most likely remain an ideal that I imagine myself participating in - paddling out into the water to relinquish the stresses of a long day.... Happy surfing! Hope you get another opportunity to enjoy some alone time again soon!
ReplyDeleteThanks Candice! I could never imagine it either until I got married and my husband 'encouraged' me to give it a go... and now almost 10 years later I can't imagine not doing it! Although I think sometimes he wishes I'd just stayed on land...
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